Regalia is not a costume
The word “regalia” is used by many Native communities for the clothing and adornment worn at ceremonies, dances and other formal occasions. The word matters. Regalia is not a costume, and wearing it is not a performance in the way a stage outfit is. Pieces are often made by family members, passed down or given as honors, and cared for with attention. Because the dress of one Apache nation differs from that of another, and because some pieces and their meanings are private, this article offers only a general picture of what is publicly seen.
Girls’ and women’s dress
At public coming-of-age celebrations in several Apache communities, a young woman is dressed in a fringed buckskin or hide dress, often decorated with beadwork, painted designs or metal ornaments. Her family and community members commonly contribute to preparing the outfit and the event. Photographs of such dresses appear in tribal publications and museum books, and the visible features are widely described: fringe, beaded borders, and small metal cones or jingles that make sound when the wearer moves.
Variations are significant. Western Apache, Chiricahua, Mescalero and Jicarilla clothing traditions differ from one another, and historical Apache everyday clothing was different again from ceremonial dress. In many communities, a distinctive style of calico “camp dress,” long skirts and layered blouses has developed since the nineteenth century and is worn proudly at feasts and gatherings. That style reflects trade and contact with outsiders and should be understood as an Apache tradition in its own right, not as a lesser or borrowed one.
Public discussion of a girl’s coming-of-age dress tends to stop there. What the ceremony involves, the significance of specific items, and the way they are used are not matters this article describes. The Sunrise Ceremony and similar events are known publicly mainly through such outward features.
Mountain Spirit dancer attire
Among the Western Apache, Chiricahua and Mescalero, the Mountain Spirit dancers, whose name is often given as Gaan or Ga’an, are among the best known figures at public events. Observers describe tall, painted wooden headpieces, bodies painted with designs, kilts or similar lower garments, and carried wooden objects. Public images of the dancers appear in tribal and museum publications.
This is where a respectful approach matters most. The attire of these dancers is understood in Apache communities as bound to the beings they represent, and who may make, wear and see certain items is governed by community custom. Photographs are often prohibited at events where they appear. Descriptions here are therefore limited to what has long been in the public record. It would be wrong to guess at significance or to give a list of “meanings” for individual symbols, and the same caution applies to books or websites that do so. The Mountain Spirits as figures in Apache stories are also discussed in sources on Apache traditions, but accounts differ by nation.
Materials and craftsmanship
Regalia draws on many of the crafts for which Apache artists are known. Common materials mentioned in public sources include tanned hides, cloth, glass beads, metal ornaments, shells and feathers, along with paint made for the purpose. The skill of Apache hide tanning, long used to make clothing and carrying gear, underlies much traditional dress. Apache beadwork, which developed from the use of glass trade beads from the nineteenth century onward, decorates dresses, moccasins and other items.
Natural materials are used with care, and rules govern the use of some, such as eagle feathers. In the United States, federal law regulates possession of eagle feathers, with provisions for enrolled members of federally recognized tribes; those rules are not something visitors or hobbyists can ignore. Anyone who wants details should go to the relevant nation and agency.
Moccasins, belts, necklaces, bags and jewelry complete many outfits. Among the Apache, jewelry has varied traditions, with contributions from local makers and from neighboring peoples. Readers interested in the objects as craft can look to the work of Apache artists who sell their work openly.
Powwow dress and ceremonial dress
Powwows and other social gatherings are different from closed ceremonies. Powwow dance clothing is often called regalia too, and styles vary widely across Native nations. Apache dancers who take part in a powwow may wear outfits that draw on Plains or other traditions as well as Apache ones. It is not accurate to treat all dance clothing as sacred, or to treat any Native dress seen at a powwow as typical of every nation. Apache powwow regalia is one thing; dress used in closed ceremonies is another.
Respectful behavior
- Do not touch regalia or a person’s outfit without invitation.
- Do not photograph dancers or families at events unless photography is clearly permitted, and ask first.
- Do not wear “Native-style” outfits, headdresses or face paint as a costume. The practice is widely considered offensive.
- Avoid buying cheap imitations sold as “Apache regalia.” Buy directly from Native artists when you want authentic work.
- Remember that regalia belongs to living communities and to the people who wear it.
For information on current events and rules, consult the official websites and cultural offices of the Apache nations.