A garment of the nineteenth century
The camp dress is a two-piece outfit that is strongly associated with Western Apache women and is also worn by women in several other Apache communities. It consists of a long, full skirt, often worn with several layers or a deep ruffle, and a loose, long-sleeved blouse that hangs over the waist. Both are typically made of cotton cloth, often brightly printed, and decorated with bands of trim.
The dress is not an ancient hide garment. It developed in the nineteenth century, when printed cotton became available through trade, government issue and traders’ stores. Apache women had previously worn hide skirts and tops, and cloth gradually took over many everyday uses. The cut of the full skirt and loose blouse is often linked to the fashions of Mexican and American women of the period, which Apache women adapted to their own preferences. Sources differ on the exact timing and routes of influence, and it is more accurate to describe a gradual process than a single date.
The name “camp dress” itself refers to the mobile, outdoor life of the time. Whether the term was used in the same way across communities is uncertain.
Why it counts as traditional
People sometimes object that a cloth dress inspired by European and Mexican fashion cannot be traditional. Most cultural historians would say that tradition is not frozen. Communities take up new materials and make them their own, and what matters is that Apache women made the style distinct, passed it on, and gave it meaning. By the later nineteenth century, photographs show Apache women wearing garments of this general type, and it has been worn in the generations since.
This is a good example of the point made in the overview of reservation-era change: adaptation to new circumstances did not mean abandoning identity. It also reflects the importance of women’s skill in sewing, a theme found in the broader discussion of roles of Apache women.
How it is made
Camp dresses are usually sewn by hand or on a sewing machine. Makers choose the fabric, plan the layers of the skirt and decide on trim. Common features include:
- Several widths of cloth gathered into a full skirt, sometimes with tiers or flounces.
- A long-sleeved blouse, sometimes with ruffles or a gathered neckline.
- Contrasting ribbon or bias tape, and sometimes lace.
- A belt, shawl, jewelry or beaded accessories worn with it.
The amount of fabric and labor means a well-made dress is a significant piece of work. Patterns and details differ between families and communities, which is one reason it is better to speak of camp dresses in the plural than of a single standard design.
Ceremony and public dress
The camp dress is also worn by girls and women on important occasions, including events connected with growing up. Details of ceremonies are not shared publicly, and this site does not describe them. In general terms, a new dress made by relatives can be part of marking a milestone, and the work of making it is a form of care and support. The Sunrise Ceremony is among the coming-of-age traditions discussed elsewhere on this site, at a general, public level only.
At community events, fairs, graduations, parades and other celebrations, many women and girls wear camp dresses as formal or festive dress. Some also wear them in everyday settings, while most wear ordinary contemporary clothing day to day.
Identity wear today
Today the camp dress is often seen as a visible expression of identity, family and community. A dress may be made by a mother, aunt, grandmother or friend, and wearing it can show connection to those relatives. It can also be worn for school or public ceremonies where students and graduates want to honor their heritage. Some Apache people have noted that clothing like this was once discouraged in boarding schools, where children were required to wear uniforms, so wearing it now carries added meaning for some. Broader discussion of that history appears under Apache boarding schools.
For visitors and writers, a few points apply:
- Do not describe the camp dress as a “costume.” It is clothing with personal and family meaning.
- Do not assume that every Apache woman wears one, or that it is the dress of all Apache nations. Mescalero, Jicarilla, Chiricahua descendants and Plains Apache communities each have their own customs, and some share the camp dress more than others.
- If you wish to buy a dress or have one made, ask who made it, and be aware that imitation items exist. Federal law is intended to prevent false claims that goods are Native-made.
- Ask before taking photographs of people in dress at events.
Clothing and wider culture
Clothing connects to many other parts of life: the craft knowledge passed from older women to younger ones, the traditional arts revival that has brought renewed interest in handmade pieces, and the economic role of sewing and sales in some households. For current information about events or makers, please consult the official websites of the Apache nations, as this independent site speaks for no one.