Dress and Adornment

Apache Jewelry: The Traditional Adornments of the Apache Tribes

A look at older Apache adornment: shell, turquoise, tin jingles, hair ties and other ornaments, and what the historical record can and cannot tell us.

On this page
  1. What adornment meant
  2. Shell
  3. Turquoise and other stone
  4. Tin jingles
  5. Hair ties and hair ornaments
  6. Beads
  7. Other ornaments
  8. A word on sacred items
  9. Learning more

What adornment meant

Adornment refers to ornaments worn on the body and clothing: necklaces, pendants, earrings, hair ties, fringe and attached decoration. For Apache peoples, as for most societies, such items could mark age, family pride, a special occasion or simple personal taste. It is important not to over-read them. Outside writers have often assigned fixed meanings to colours and shapes that Apache people themselves did not describe that way, so it is safer to say that meanings varied between groups and individuals and are not always recorded.

The evidence is also uneven. Perishable materials rarely survive, nineteenth-century collectors preferred showy items, and photographs show only what was worn when the camera was present. The overview below describes what is reasonably well reported.

Shell

Shell is among the best-documented adornment materials in the Southwest. Because the region is far from the sea, shell reached the interior through long trade routes from the Pacific coast and the Gulf of California. Shell pieces were worn as pendants, strung as beads or sewn onto garments. Western Apache and other groups are reported to have used shell, and its presence in a region far from the coast is a reminder of how extensive the networks of exchange were. These links are discussed in the context of early Apache trade relations.

Turquoise and other stone

Turquoise has been valued across the Southwest for centuries. It appears as beads, pendants and inlays, and it was acquired by trade as well as by local sources. Apache people are reported to have used turquoise beads and pendants, along with other stones. As with shell, the appeal was partly its colour and partly its availability through exchange. Specific beliefs attached to particular stones belong to the sphere of knowledge that is not always shared publicly, so they are not described here.

Tin jingles

Tin cone jingles are a nineteenth-century development. Rolled pieces of tin, cut from cans or sheets obtained through trade and government supply, were attached to buckskin fringes and clothing, where they made a light sound when the wearer moved. They are a good example of people reusing a new material available because of contact with outsiders. Their presence on garments, bags and other items has been noted in photographs and in museum pieces, though details of who used them, and when, differ by community.

Hair ties and hair ornaments

Hair care was important and varied by group, age and period. Hair ties of hide or cloth held hair in place, and some included decoration such as beads, fringe or small metal items. Women, men and children are all reported to have worn different styles. Outsiders sometimes remarked on hairstyles, and boarding schools later cut children’s hair, a practice remembered as part of the harm done by forced assimilation; the broader story is covered under Apache boarding school history.

Beads

Glass seed beads, introduced through trade, gradually became widely used on clothing and ornaments, particularly from the later nineteenth century. Earlier decoration relied on natural materials such as seeds, shell, bone and painted designs. Apache beadwork continues today and is covered in its own article.

Other ornaments

Other reported items include earrings, bracelets, armbands and neckerchiefs, and in the later nineteenth century cloth headbands. Metal ornaments like silver conchas and rings grew more common over time, partly through trade with neighbouring peoples. How early Apache people themselves worked silver is less well documented than the Navajo case, and contemporary makers are discussed in a separate article.

A word on sacred items

Some ornaments are tied to ceremonies or personal spiritual practice. These are not described here, and it would be wrong to guess at their details. General information about Apache sacred objects and what is shared publicly is covered elsewhere on this site, and visitors to Apache communities should follow the guidance of the people they are visiting.

Learning more

Museum collections hold many historic ornaments, but they raise ongoing questions about ownership and return. For a respectful way to learn, consult the cultural centers and official websites of the Apache nations, whose own materials are more reliable than general overviews, including this one.

The complete guide to dress and adornment

Apache Clothing and Adornment: A Study of Traditional Attire
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