Made from the land
Regalia, like everyday dress, has long depended on materials from the surrounding environment. In the Southwest and Southern Plains these include hides, sinew, plant fibers, shell, stone, wood and feathers. The materials link the finished piece to particular places, animals and plants, and to the knowledge needed to gather and prepare them.
This article is about the materials and the practical and legal issues around them. It does not describe ceremonial items or any beliefs attached to particular species, since some of that knowledge is not shared publicly.
Animal materials
Hides. Deer hide has been the best-known material for clothing and moccasins, and elk and other game were also used where available. Preparing a hide is demanding, a craft discussed under Apache hide tanning. Today some makers still tan hides by hand, while others buy commercially tanned hides because of time, cost or access to game.
Sinew. Animal sinew served as strong thread and is still used by some makers for sewing hide.
Rawhide. Stiffer, untanned hide was used for soles and containers, as described in the article on moccasins.
Horsehair and cattle hide. After horses and livestock arrived, these became available in the region and were used for items such as ties, fringes and some footwear soles. The horse is a major theme in Southern Plains history.
Feathers. Feathers appear in regalia among many Native peoples. Which feathers are used, and how, depends on the nation, family and occasion, and is partly a matter that is not shared publicly. The legal side is discussed below.
Shell and bone. Shell is older than the reservation period and often came through trade, as noted in the account of older Apache adornment. Bone is used for beads and other small pieces in some work.
Plant materials
Plants supply fiber, dyes, wood and cordage. Yucca is widely reported as a source of fiber and cordage in the Southwest, and its many uses are discussed under yucca uses. Wood forms the frames of items such as drums and cradleboards. Reeds and grasses may be used in baskets and are part of the larger story of basketry plant materials. Seeds and some natural dyes were also used for color and decoration. Which plants any given maker uses depends on the region, the season, and what the land still offers.
Changing access to materials
Over the past 150 years, access to traditional materials has narrowed. The reservation system confined people to smaller areas, and Apache land loss changed what could be hunted and gathered. Fencing, development, grazing, drought, wildfire and the growth of non-native plants have all affected supplies of some plants and animals. The question of drought and wild foods affects plants used in craft as well as in cooking.
In response, makers often combine traditional and purchased materials. Commercial tanned hide, glass beads, cotton thread and store-bought cloth sit alongside locally gathered items. This is not a sign of lost authenticity. Makers have always adopted useful materials, and trade goods have been part of Apache craft since at least the period of Spanish colonial contact.
Wildlife law and feathers
Several federal laws affect the use of animal parts in regalia, and the details are complicated. This section is general information only and not legal advice.
- Feathers of many wild birds are protected by federal law, including laws that cover migratory birds and eagles.
- Eagle feathers and parts are subject to special rules. Members of federally recognized tribes can apply for permits and can obtain feathers through a federal repository system, while non-members generally cannot lawfully possess them.
- Some animal parts, including those of certain endangered species, are restricted or regulated, and international trade can involve additional rules.
- State laws may also apply to hunting, gathering and possessing wildlife.
These rules have caused real difficulty for some makers and families, since a customary item can be hard to obtain lawfully, and old pieces held in collections can raise questions. Anyone buying or selling regalia that contains feathers, claws, teeth or other animal parts should check the current rules with the relevant federal and tribal authorities before doing so. The nations’ own official websites are good places to start.
Gathering respectfully
On tribal lands, gathering plants, wood or other materials generally requires permission from the nation. Collecting from public lands is also regulated, and rules vary. Visitors should not gather materials from places they are visiting, and should follow the guidance on photography and access. Apache communities’ relationship to specific places is discussed in the articles on Apache sacred places and on the wider land.
Stewardship and continuity
Makers often describe their work in terms of care for the source: using the whole hide, repairing instead of replacing, and passing on tools and patterns. These attitudes are linked to wider ideas of Apache land stewardship, though individual views vary. Looking ahead, the sourcing of natural materials will likely continue to depend on law, climate and access to land, which are matters for the nations and their members to decide.